Gỏi cuốn

History and Regional Versions

Gỏi cuốn is a variation of the fresh spring rolls called popiah (薄餅) made by the Teochew who migrated to South Viet Nam after the political upheaval following the Ming’s fall to the Qing in China in the mid-17th century.

While original Teochew popiah use a wrapper made from wheat flour, filled with stir-fried vegetables, Chinese sausage, and egg, gỏi cuốn have evolved into fresh, un-fried rolls to suit the hot, humid climate and busy lifestyle of pioneers (easy to carry, ready to eat without reheating). The wheat flour wrapper has been replaced with rice paper, and the stir-fried filling has been replaced with boiled fillings such as boiled shrimp or boiled pork belly, served with fresh rice vermicelli (bún tươi) and herbs like chives, basil, and lettuce.

While the main ingredients of gỏi cuốn are largely consistent across regions, the accompanying dipping sauces vary greatly:

• The South: They are served with hoisin sauce (tương đen) or a sweet dipping sauce made from fermented soybean paste (tương hột) combined with peanut butter, topped with pickled vegetables and crushed peanuts.
• The Central Coast: Often served with a spicy dipping sauce made from fermented anchovies called mắm nêm, garlic, chili, and balanced with pineapple.
• The North: Served with a light, mild sweet and sour fish sauce (nước mắm).

Thìa Gỗ’s gỏi cuốn is made according to the South version but is a pork-free version featuring a rice paper wrapper (bánh tráng gạo) and fillings of boiled shrimp, fresh rice vermicelli (bún tươi), and various herbs such as chives, Thai basil, mint, lettuce, heartleaf, bean sprouts, etc. Unlike traditional dipping sauces made from fermented soybeans or hoisin sauce, Thìa Gỗ’s gỏi cuốn dipping sauce is made from sesame seed paste combined with minced beef. Crushed roasted peanuts are sprinkled on top for added crunch when eaten.

How to Prepare

First, the chef lays a damp sheet of rice paper (bánh tráng gạo) flat on a surface. Next, the filling ingredients are arranged in a horizontal line in the middle of the rice paper: a bed of fresh rice vermicelli (bún tươi), followed by lettuce, bean sprouts, and herbs. As the chef rolls, the sides are folded inward. Before wrapping is complete, boiled shrimp are placed so that their vibrant red color peeks through the translucent rice paper. The roll is then sealed tightly.

How to Eat

Pick up a roll of gỏi cuốn, dip it directly into the dipping sauce, and enjoy!