Bánh xèo

History and Regional Versions

Bánh xèo is a type of fried rice pancake popular throughout central and southern Vietnam. Archaeological and culinary research suggests that its basic technique – pouring liquid rice flour into individual molds – originated from earthenware cooking methods developed by the Champa Kingdom from the 7th to the 15th centuries. When Vietnamese people migrated south toward Huế and adopted this cooking technique, they adapted it and used cast iron molds to replace the earthenware ones. The earliest version was bánh khoái.

Following migrations to the Mekong Delta, Vietnamese people switched from cast iron molds to large, thick-bottomed cast iron pans for making bánh xèo when they became mass-produced during the French colonial period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The adoption of these pans allowed for the creation of larger, thinner bánh xèo. Southern chefs have also incorporated local agricultural products, especially coconut milk, into the liquid rice flour, allowing it to react with the high temperature of the pan to create a thin, crispy crust.

Regional versions

• The Central Coast: Bánh xèo (and bánh khoái) are small, palm-sized, and fried in thick, flat-bottomed cast iron molds. The finished product is thicker and chewier, with the crispness concentrated only at the edges. They are usually served with a thick, warm dipping sauce made from pork liver and fermented soybean paste.
• The South: Bánh xèo here are characterized by their large diameter (over 12in) and are fried in deep pans. The flour includes coconut milk and turmeric, creating a thin and crispy crust. The fillings are diverse, depending on local ingredients, ranging from pork and shrimp to mung beans, bean sprouts, duck meat, or palm heart (củ hủ dừa) and Sesbania flowers (bông điên điển).

Thìa Gỗ’s bánh xèo is based on the South’s version but omits the palm heart (củ hủ dừa) to make it less greasy. The pancake is served on a plate with rice paper, lettuce, mustard greens, various tropical herbs, and a sweet and sour dipping sauce containing pickled carrots and papaya.

How to Prepare

First, the liquid rice flour is left to rest to ensure even moisture distribution. While waiting, a deep cast-iron pan is heated over high heat and lightly coated with oil. Additionally, the beef/shrimp is pan-fried beforehand to prevent it from drying out. A ladle of liquid rice flour, along with the pre-seared beef/shrimp are poured into the center of the sizzling pan, and the chef immediately rotates the pan in a circular motion to spread the liquid evenly into a thin layer, creating the characteristic sizzling (xèo) sound. Bean sprouts are then sprinkled on half of bánh xèo. Finally, bánh xèo is left to dry over low heat until the edges separate from the cast-iron pan and it is folded into a crescent shape.

How to Eat

Cut large bánh xèo into smaller pieces with scissors. Then, place a thin sheet of rice paper (bánh tráng gạo) on your palm, cover it with a leaf of mustard greens or lettuce leaf along with fresh herbs. Finally, place a piece of bánh xèo in the middle, roll it up tightly, dip it in sweet and sour dipping sauce, and enjoy.